Food and Drink: May 2008 Archives

Court Street Pastry makes the best Italian ice in all of Brooklyn. So good, in fact, that I'm guilty of having one almost every day since they started serving for the season. Even little Devin is getting into the action.

I'm going to make the bold declaration that the newest pizza parlor in the neighborhood is the neighborhood's second best pizza. South Brooklyn Pizza, attached to PJ Hanley's on Court between Luquer and 4th Place, is firing up a coal oven, and it's a shame the city doesn't let more coal ovens operate (and I'm not sure how this one got the go-ahead), because there is nothing like a coal-fired pizza crust.

But this is about more than just the oven. The crust, while still thin, is soft and doughy at the center yet extra crispy on the edges and bottom--audible crunches were heard at our table throughout our gorging. A generous helping of olive oil does not overwhelm the pie or the crust. It, instead, enhances the crispiness of the crust. A rich layer of mozzerella cheese (didn't ask what exact kind) and a sweet but not cloying sauce balance each other out. The pie is dressed with fresh basil and nothing else, although according to the hostess toppings are in the works. It's clear that somebody really cares about these pies, which run $12 each and are served on squares of wood.

What I liked: the coal-fired char, the doughy yet crispy crust, beer on tap (Sierra Nevada on tap is $6), and--best of all--no wait

What I didn't like: the ho-hum atmosphere

And for the record, Lucali's on Henry Street is still number one, while Vinny's on Court makes an admirable showing for overall best slice and its remarkable Grandma pie.

Though both my dining companion and I felt a bit like we were cheating on Zaytoons, we had a lovely time at the new Olive Vine Cafe on Court Street near Degraw for lunch today. Perhaps the nicest surprise is the backyard. While the plastic tables and chairs are not creating any amazing ambiance, and a few more umbrellas need to be added, any backyard eating addition is a good one in my book.

As for the food, above is my assorted salad plate ($8) with hummus, babaganoush, labneh, chickpea and spinach salad and tabouleh. My friend got the same plate but with the substition of beets, lentil salad and stuffed grape leaves. I think we sampled every salad on the menu. Top marks go to the chickpea salad for the mix of sweet tomatoes and onions. I could have eaten a whole plate. Low marks go to the hummus, which while smooth and creamy was missing a certain bright tang that I like. All was accompanied by fresh pita bread, served hot and puffed up, a nice touch.

Also on the menu: pita pizzas, falafels, kebabs, etc. And, like Zaytoons, it's BYOB.

And it's SOUTH Brooklyn pizza to you, Mr.

We will have some this week and report back. Anyone been yet with an early report? 

Just taking a moment to mourn the neighborhood's best fried chicken, greens and various roasted veggies. Also, I'll miss the burger.