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In what is, to my knowledge, a first for ABL, a review of a restaurant (South Brooklyn Pizza) has made it from cyberspace to windowspace. It has ... in a word ... been ... laminated! Move over Time Out New York, New York Magazine and other assundry mags of eating record ;)
And check out my online review of South Brooklyn pizza. Although, I have amended my thoughts a bit, as subsesquent visits proved the pizza uneven (see my comment in the comments section). The potential is there--they just need to figure out how to tame that beast of an oven and handle crowds.
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Lunchtime in the neighborhood is generally a perfuntory affair for me: falafel at Zaytoons, a slice at Vinny's, the occasional banh mi at Nicky's when I'm up that way. But my craving for sushi had to be satisfied on Monday, and that took me and my dining companion to Cube 63 on Court Street in Cobble Hill. Due to my pregnancy, I hadn't consumed sushi for a long, long time, and the restaurant's lunch menu was a nice way to ease back into the world of raw fish. Of particular interest is the tea menu, their version of the bento box, which ranges (if memory serves) from $6.50 to $8.50. Above is my tea lunch, which in addition to all the lovely little delicacies you see here, came with a whole pot of green tea. Below is what my dining companion chose.
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I'm going to make the bold declaration that the newest pizza parlor in the neighborhood is the neighborhood's second best pizza. South Brooklyn Pizza, attached to PJ Hanley's on Court between Luquer and 4th Place, is firing up a coal oven, and it's a shame the city doesn't let more coal ovens operate (and I'm not sure how this one got the go-ahead), because there is nothing like a coal-fired pizza crust.
But this is about more than just the oven. The crust, while still thin, is soft and doughy at the center yet extra crispy on the edges and bottom--audible crunches were heard at our table throughout our gorging. A generous helping of olive oil does not overwhelm the pie or the crust. It, instead, enhances the crispiness of the crust. A rich layer of mozzerella cheese (didn't ask what exact kind) and a sweet but not cloying sauce balance each other out. The pie is dressed with fresh basil and nothing else, although according to the hostess toppings are in the works. It's clear that somebody really cares about these pies, which run $12 each and are served on squares of wood.
What I liked: the coal-fired char, the doughy yet crispy crust, beer on tap (Sierra Nevada on tap is $6), and--best of all--no wait
What I didn't like: the ho-hum atmosphere
And for the record, Lucali's on Henry Street is still number one, while Vinny's on Court makes an admirable showing for overall best slice and its remarkable Grandma pie.
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Though both my dining companion and I felt a bit like we were cheating on Zaytoons, we had a lovely time at the new Olive Vine Cafe on Court Street near Degraw for lunch today. Perhaps the nicest surprise is the backyard. While the plastic tables and chairs are not creating any amazing ambiance, and a few more umbrellas need to be added, any backyard eating addition is a good one in my book.
As for the food, above is my assorted salad plate ($8) with hummus, babaganoush, labneh, chickpea and spinach salad and tabouleh. My friend got the same plate but with the substition of beets, lentil salad and stuffed grape leaves. I think we sampled every salad on the menu. Top marks go to the chickpea salad for the mix of sweet tomatoes and onions. I could have eaten a whole plate. Low marks go to the hummus, which while smooth and creamy was missing a certain bright tang that I like. All was accompanied by fresh pita bread, served hot and puffed up, a nice touch.
Also on the menu: pita pizzas, falafels, kebabs, etc. And, like Zaytoons, it's BYOB.
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Just taking a moment to mourn the neighborhood's best fried chicken, greens and various roasted veggies. Also, I'll miss the burger.
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After months of waiting, and untold journeys to Sweet Melissa Patisserie for sugar fixes, The Sweet Melissa Baking Book hit my kitchen the other week. I immediately cracked the spine at the index to search for my favorite treat ... and there it was: "madeleines, chestnut honey, 62-63." If you have never had a Sweet Melissa madeleine, then you need to get up immediately, scrounge $1.25 in change, and proceed straight to the bakery. Forget Proust, from henceforth when you think of madeleines, the name you'll murmur will be Melissa.
Madeleines are cookies that are also cake. This should be an adequate explanation for the necessity of their existence and of the dire urgency for eating one at the absolute earliest. Could pages 62-63 do justice to these sublime little shells of baked goodness? With my boyfriend's birthday just coming up, I decided to forego the cupcakes (so 2007) and try out her recipe.![]()
After a $30 stop at A Cook's Companion for madeleine molds, a ten minute wait at Sahadi's for hazelnuts (also called filberts, FYI), a tense deconstruction of 6 eggs (ok, actually 8 but that is only because I am terrible at separating egg whites), and two hours of refrigeration, the madeleines were ready to bake. Fifteen minutes later 24 perfect chestnut honey madeleines lay cooling on the kitchen counter. Moist, sweet, and perfect for dusting with sugar. Though my version was not quite as good as the one Melissa makes in her bakery, I place the blame squarely on my shoulders. Her recipe was clear and easy, and the cookie/cakes were believably baked by a pro.
To get your own copy of the book (and maybe one or two madeleines) swing by her book party at 7 p.m. on Wednesday, 2 April at the Park Slope location.

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[New South Brooklyn Pizza--2nd Best Pizza in Hood]
[New South Brooklyn Pizza--2nd Best Pizza in Hood]
[Hanley's Pizza Parlor is Open]
[Lunchtime Zen: Cube 63 Tea Lunches]
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