Zenkichi in Williamsburg

It's not often that I go to Williamsburg for a nice dinner out, but the newish Japanese tapas place on North Sixth caught my fancy. So, Saturday night our group set out for the Zenkichi experience. And it is an experience. There's a rope guarding the dining room (very Decibel-like), and without a reservation it seemed like even groups of two were having to wait an hour. With a reservation, you're led to either the second or third floors, where a wooden booth awaits, semi-separated from other booths by wooden slats and  bamboo curtains. The darkness, the wall mirrors, the bamboo between floors, the river stones--it's not often one feels truly removed from the city in a New York restaurant, and it's even less often that one can summon the waitstaff with a tabletop call button. 

Being a group of four and feeling a bit like high rollers (we're not), we ordered two tasting menus at $88 per couple. We started with the anago and cream cheese tempura, which I'd recommend in a heartbeat--who doesn't like deep fried cream cheese?--although the taste of the eel was lost in the mix. Other favorites included the black cod, just as sweet and tender as any I've had at other of New York's famous Japanese spots. The tuna carpaccio, however, stole the show, its light dressing of sesame oil and soy sauce bringing out the fish's superb flavor. The pork belly provided the night's only disappointment, its meat having been overcooked, which made the fatty cut seem even more so. I'd be amiss not to mention the tofu delights, both sweet and savory. The sweet side meaning the cheesecake pictured above, served with a grapefruit gelee. The restaurant is worth a splurge, but you wouldn't have to break the bank to eat here. Two could happily spend $40-$50 before sake and be satiated.

Zenkichi is at 77 N 6th St. Phone (718) 388-8985.

Check out more blog reviews: NYC Crumbs, Urban Sake.